There’s been a lot of chat in the internet craft community about the joy and power of FREE, as in sharing creative works for free to spread goodwill.  I love this idea, sharing tutorials and ideas, but I wanted to take it a step further.  So here’s my next big thing, a free online class where I’m not only sharing knitting knowledge, but giving you the opportunity to share some free, too.

Visit my class site to sign up for a completely free online video class on how to knit socks with the Magic Loop technique.  The class project is a teeny pair of toddler socks that can be (but don’t have to be, your choice, no pressure) donated to Children in Common.  CIC helps provide warm clothing and other assistance to children living in orphanages in Russia and the rest of the former soviet Union.

SIGN UP HERE

www.youtube.com/watch?v=fv-WEVowY7A

While it may have been an unrealistic project goal with all the freelance deadlines creeping up on me, I cast on for a personal project, Snowden Becker’s adorable, wearable, classic Myrtle cardigan.  Lace, sock yarn, cardigan, SOLD.

So I dyed up 4 skeins of Merino Fine in a slightly lighter shade of Edgar (less black, more charcoal to show of the texture of the lace, because I’m the dyer and I can totally do that), and cast on.  Skipped the gauge swatch, which I would scold a student for doing, so naturally, it bit me on the butt, I ripped, and cast on again with smaller needles. Then I got to the lace charts.  Very clearly laid out, worked my way through row-by-row and realized: I am NEVER going to memorize this chart*.  Well, then.  Time to break out cheat sheets.

Lace cheat sheets (or flip cards, or reference cards) are one of my favorite tricks for making lace enjoyable when it could easily turn into “shut the %&$* up, I’m counting!!”.  While a lot of knitters may be capable of memorizing lace and texture charts, myself included, you don’t always HAVE to.  As Einstein once said, “Why should I memorize something I can so easily get from a book?”  Or some handy pocket-sized cards, for we knitters.  By putting it down into easily scannable chunks of the pattern, you can free up your brain from the stress of memorization and do other things while you knit, like say, think, daydream, converse with friends and family, or watch tv.

So first, grab some index cards, or cut some card stock into smallish-sized cards, say 4″x5″ or so.  Punch a hole in the upper corner (I go upper left, but do what works for you) of as many cards as you have “real” pattern rows.  As in, if it’s just a “purl all stitches” row, don’t bother.

I like to paste a copy of the chart onto an extra card, which I use for the “cover”, but this isn’t crucial.

On each card, write the row number, and then the written-out version of the stitch pattern for that row.  If you’re using multiple charts in a row, write the instructions for each.  If you like, write a reminder for your wrong-side row instructions for plain rows.  If you have varying stitch counts or special instructions, jot those down, too.

Use a binder ring to assemble, and use a paper clip or binder clip to keep the pages from flapping around in transit.

To use, simply flip to the page that correspond with your row.  When you’ve completed the row, flip to the next row card.  Clip the pages in place (every time, trust me!) so that if your little book of cards gets knocked over, the pages won’t flip on their own.

So now you’ll be free to watch tv, chat with friends, take your project to Stitch and Bitch, and enjoy your lace project, rather than have it languish in your knitting basket because it’s too fussy for public knitting.  And if I can get my other knitting work done, now I’ll be able to finish up this little cardi, too!

*This realization really hit home when I botched several rows while attempting to simultaneously knit this while watching the LOST premiere.  Bad move.  It took longer to pick out those rows than it did to knit them!

Here’s the traditional method from the front:

And from the back:

And this is the “cheater” method from the front and back:
(Excuse the fuzzies, this is a much-loved sweater*)

You’ll need two sets of circulars for this, one in the larger size for the majority of your knitting, and one set one to two sizes smaller for your hem facing.

To begin, cast on your desired number of stitches onto your smaller hem needle, using a simple backward loop cast on.  Keep the tension “just right”, not too tight, but not loose and loopy.  Normally these knit-in hems are done on knit-in-the-round pieces, but for illustration I’m doing a flat swatch.

The backward loop cast on is not my normal go-to method for casting on, but we’ll want a nice open bottom edge to this, so here it’s the winner.

Next, knit into your cast on through the front loop.  This will give the stitches of the cast on edge a slight twist, which will make it easier to knit into the bottom edge later.  Work in stockinette stitch to desired hem depth.

Now switch to your larger needles (whatever size you’ll be knitting the piece with), and purl one row to create the turning row for the hem.  Then work in stockinette stitch until you’ve reached the same depth as the 1st section of the hem.  Depending on your yarn and needles, this may not be the same number of rows.  I often have one or two less rows on the 2nd section worked on larger needles than the 1st worked on smaller ones.

Now it’s time to join the layers together.  Fold up your work at the purl row, so that the cast on edge is directly behind your left hand needle.  Insert the tip of the left hand needle into the first cast on edge loop.

Insert your right hand needle, then knit these two loops together as one.

Continue knitting together pairs of stitches and cast on loops all the way to the end of your round/row.

The front of your work should look like this:

And the back like this:

Continue working in stockinette on larger needles as directed by your pattern.

Now you’ll have a nice smooth finish on the front:

And a nice flat finish on the inside of your piece:

Questions?  Comments?  I’d love to hear them.

*Refined Raglan, one of my patterns published in Interweave Knits in Winter 2006.  Pattern available HERE.

This post is part of the Fiber Arts Friday Blog Carnival!

My new Peepshow Zip Pouch crochet pattern, now available in the etsy shop or as a ravelry download for $2.50.

Supplies:

In addition to your sewing supplies from last time, you will need-

a ruler
sharp fabric scissors (you know, the good ones that never touch paper)
lining fabric-I usually use quilter’s cotton, but any relatively thin, close weave fabric will work.
a 4-7″ zipper-you can adjust length to fit
two matching knit or crochet pieces 3-7″ wide, any length
crochet hook to match gauge of yarn (a little too small is better than a little too big)
matching yarn

First, measure your handcraft pieces for length and width.  Measure and mark your fabric 1/2″ larger on both measurements (example:  4″x4″ pieces of knitting would need lining pieces that measure 4.5″x4.5″ each) and cut two pieces to these measurements.

Shorten the length of your zipper if needed, then pin into place and baste (see part 1).  Once sewn down, remove pins.

Lay your lining right side down flush against the edge of one side of your zipper on the back side of your work.  Pin into place as shown.

This is how the layers line up:

Working on the front side of the work, backstitch (flashback to part 1 again) zipper in place, being sure that your needle goes all the way through the lining with each stitch.

Remove basting thread and flip your work to the wrong side.  Fold lining over, and if you care to bust out your steam iron, this is a good time to press.

Repeat this whole shebang for the other side of your zipper.

Partially unzip your zipper to free up both ends.  Lay lining pieces right sides together as shown, making sure everything lines up square, especially around the zipper ends.  Pin into place as shown.  Beginning at the top edge of lining next to the zipper edge (you can feel it, but not see it), sew with a basic running stitch one quarter inch in from your lining edge.  Unless you plan on toting around your entire Franklin Mint collection in this baby, in which case I would recommend a sturdy backstitch instead.

Clip your lining corners at a 45 degree angle, being careful not to clip your stitches.  I should really be using smaller, more accurate scissors for this:

We’re almost done!  Fold your knit/crochet pieces down over your lining.  Your lining edges will stick out, but just fold them neatly inside.  Carefully tuck your zipper ends in too, and pin if you want the extra support.  I just go wild and dive right in to the next part.

At the top left corner of whichever side you’ve deemed to be the front, attach yarn as close as you possibly can to your zipper.  Chain one, then work a round of single crochet around your work, ending as close as you can to your other zipper end.  Cut yarn and use your ends to tighten up and gaps in your work at the zipper ends, then weave them in (I just yank them through to where they won’t show using the crochet hook.).

Open up the zipper and check the inner corners for any gaps in the lining.  Tack the lining in place with a few extra stitches with your needle and thread if needed.

Taa-Daa!  You are done!

Like the zipper pouch above?  It’s my new Peepshow Zip Pouch crochet pattern, now available in the etsy shop or as a ravelry download for $2.50.

Questions?  Comments?  Let me know what you think below.

What you’ll need:

straight pins
sewing needle
sewing thread-one spool in a color that matches your handwork item, one in a contrasting color
a zipper in a length that matches your opening-use a separating zipper for cardigans and such, or a shorter, non-separating zipper for things like zip pouches.  For non-separating zippers, it’s ok if the zipper is longer than the opening, they’re easy to shorten.
scissors
clean, flat work surface
some quiet time to work at a relaxed pace, don’t rush it!

In these project photos, I’m working on a small zipper pouch and an easier-to-see sample swatch.  First, lay out your handwork against the zipper to determine how long you need the zipper to be for your item.  Mark this spot with a pin.  Here I’m centering the zipper about an eight of an inch in from each end.

Now, using sewing thread and a sharp needle, make a bar tack stitch by sewing over and over and over some more until you’ve built up a little bump of stitches in the spot you’ve marked. Clip threads.  See?  You’ve made your own zipper stop!  Clip the zipper 3/4 inch away from this bar tack; now you’ve got a custom length zipper.

Lay out your handwork piece on the desired side of your zipper, pin in place like this:

Now, using your contrasting thread and a long running stitch, baste your zipper in place about a quarter inch from the edge of your zipper.  Don’t knot your thread, you need to be able to yank this back out again later.  Don’t worry about aiming for perfect stitches, just aim for a nice even tension to hold the zip flat. Again, this is temporary stitching.

Now you can remove the pins, and the basting stitches will hold your zipper smoothly in place while you do your “real” stitching.  Using your matching sewing thread, sew through your fabric and the fabric of the zipper about an eight of an inch from the edge of the zipper, using a small, neat backstitch.  Remember that Paula Abdul song, “Opposites Attract”?  “One step forward, two steps back…”  Backstitch is one step forward, AKA a full stitch length with the needle coming up through the underside of the work, then a half step back, taking a small half stitch length backwards down through the layers from the top of the work.

When you do this with your matching thread, the stitches completely disappear into the knit/crochet piece:

Once you reach the end of your seam, knot the thread and weave in the end.  Now you can pull that basting thread out, and you’ll have a nice flat seam:

Here’s the back, and you can see where I didn’t quite make it through all the layers here and there (not the end of the world, I promise):

Now, for added stability and to give the inside a neat finish, I whipstitch the edge of the zipper to the back of the handwork.  Using your matching thread again, use an overcast stitch and just catch a bit of the handwork in each stitch.  You’re not going to sew all the way through the the front of the work, just on the surface of the wrong side.

Finished whipstitching:

And then you’re done!  Repeat for the other side, weave in loose threads.  For separating zippers on garments, I like to make bar tack stitches and the top and bottom of each side of the zipper to reinforce the opening.  If your item will be getting a lot of heavy use, you can opt to sew an additional backstitch seam next to each of your first seams for extra strength.

Next Friday, I’ll be posting part 2 of this tutorial, which is on sewing a lined zipper pouch.  And I’ll be releasing the pattern for these cute zipper pouches:

Tune in next week!

The basics of hexagon paper piecing can be found in a great tutorial on the Sew, Mama, Sew blog, as well as here on Lovestitches.  And I use the no-show sewing method shown here on the Sew Many Ways blog.  This is a great way to use up teensy bits of cool scrap fabric, or to show off one motif of a larger print.

Don’t forget to remove the paper before you sew the patch down!  Use a sewing needle and thread and little whipstitches.

Questions?  Drop me a line.  Have fun!

The damaged sleeve- #@%$!!

For these patches you’ll need a size C/2.5mm crochet hook, scraps of sock/fingering weight yarn, scissors, your iron, matching sewing thread and sewing needle, and a tapestry needle.  You may also want straight pins.

Blue rosettes shown are Merino Bamboo Fine in Skull Tee & Blue Jeans, yellow rosettes shown are Luxe Merino Fine in Sucre.

Watch me make those holes disappear!

Each patch is made of at least two rosettes joined to create a free-form style shape.  The rosettes are joined with a final round of crochet, then sewn in place.

Three sizes of rosettes to mix-n-match.

To begin a rosettes, make a magic ring:

Wrap yarn clockwise around your finger twice.

Insert hook into ring and draw through a loop.

Here I’m making rosette B, the medium motif.  It begins with chain 3, as does rosette A.  For rosette C, begin chain 4.

Chain 3.

Work round 1:11dc into magic ring. Gently pull tail to close the ring, leaving no hole.

All closed up!

Join last stitch to 3rd chain of turning chain with a slip stitch.  Work remaining rows of chart.  Make several rosettes in varying sizes according to your intended layout.  Now we’ll join them up!

Finished rosettes ready to be joined together.

Insert hook into any spot along outer chain, yarn over and draw through loop to begin.

 Single crochet evenly spaced along outer chains.  I usually single crochet 7 into a chain 5 space, or 5 into a 3 space; this creates a firm outer edge.  Continue partway around to where you’d like to join the next rosette.

Join by continuing the single crochet stitching onto the outer chain of the next rosette. Continue working single crochet around the second rosette until you get close to where you began.

Single crochet, continued.

Once you get close to where you began the round on rosette two, pick the spot where you'd like the two pieces to come together again, and continue your round of single crochet back onto rosette one. There will be a small gap of unedged chain which we'll take care of later.

Continue working single crochet around rosette one until you come back to the beginning of round.  Join with slip stitch, cut yarn leaving a tail, and fasten off.

Steam press patch flat. Really flat.

Weave in tails using tapestry needle.  Use whichever tail is closest to your unedged join, where the two rosettes meet, to tack the pieces together from the back.  As long as the front looks good, don’t stress about the back.  Once it’s sewn down, no one will see it.  I personally love that aspect!

Pick a thread that will blend in with your work, and grab your sharp sewing needle. You may want to use straight pins to pin your patch where you'd like it to be sewn down. I tend to just hold it in place and go at it.

Use the smallest stitches you can manage to sew the patch down. I use a fine running stitch at the very edge, almost the back of the patch. Continue all the way around the edge of the patch. You may or may not want to give it a few small stitches in the center, depending on how large of a piece you crocheted, and the thickness of your fabric.

The final look, with extra patches for fun!

I’d love your feedback on this tutorial, because I’m planning on posting more.  Let me know what you think!