My new Peepshow Zip Pouch crochet pattern, now available in the etsy shop or as a ravelry download for $2.50.

Supplies:

In addition to your sewing supplies from last time, you will need-

a ruler
sharp fabric scissors (you know, the good ones that never touch paper)
lining fabric-I usually use quilter’s cotton, but any relatively thin, close weave fabric will work.
a 4-7″ zipper-you can adjust length to fit
two matching knit or crochet pieces 3-7″ wide, any length
crochet hook to match gauge of yarn (a little too small is better than a little too big)
matching yarn

First, measure your handcraft pieces for length and width.  Measure and mark your fabric 1/2″ larger on both measurements (example:  4″x4″ pieces of knitting would need lining pieces that measure 4.5″x4.5″ each) and cut two pieces to these measurements.

Shorten the length of your zipper if needed, then pin into place and baste (see part 1).  Once sewn down, remove pins.

Lay your lining right side down flush against the edge of one side of your zipper on the back side of your work.  Pin into place as shown.

This is how the layers line up:

Working on the front side of the work, backstitch (flashback to part 1 again) zipper in place, being sure that your needle goes all the way through the lining with each stitch.

Remove basting thread and flip your work to the wrong side.  Fold lining over, and if you care to bust out your steam iron, this is a good time to press.

Repeat this whole shebang for the other side of your zipper.

Partially unzip your zipper to free up both ends.  Lay lining pieces right sides together as shown, making sure everything lines up square, especially around the zipper ends.  Pin into place as shown.  Beginning at the top edge of lining next to the zipper edge (you can feel it, but not see it), sew with a basic running stitch one quarter inch in from your lining edge.  Unless you plan on toting around your entire Franklin Mint collection in this baby, in which case I would recommend a sturdy backstitch instead.

Clip your lining corners at a 45 degree angle, being careful not to clip your stitches.  I should really be using smaller, more accurate scissors for this:

We’re almost done!  Fold your knit/crochet pieces down over your lining.  Your lining edges will stick out, but just fold them neatly inside.  Carefully tuck your zipper ends in too, and pin if you want the extra support.  I just go wild and dive right in to the next part.

At the top left corner of whichever side you’ve deemed to be the front, attach yarn as close as you possibly can to your zipper.  Chain one, then work a round of single crochet around your work, ending as close as you can to your other zipper end.  Cut yarn and use your ends to tighten up and gaps in your work at the zipper ends, then weave them in (I just yank them through to where they won’t show using the crochet hook.).

Open up the zipper and check the inner corners for any gaps in the lining.  Tack the lining in place with a few extra stitches with your needle and thread if needed.

Taa-Daa!  You are done!

Like the zipper pouch above?  It’s my new Peepshow Zip Pouch crochet pattern, now available in the etsy shop or as a ravelry download for $2.50.

Questions?  Comments?  Let me know what you think below.

What you’ll need:

straight pins
sewing needle
sewing thread-one spool in a color that matches your handwork item, one in a contrasting color
a zipper in a length that matches your opening-use a separating zipper for cardigans and such, or a shorter, non-separating zipper for things like zip pouches.  For non-separating zippers, it’s ok if the zipper is longer than the opening, they’re easy to shorten.
scissors
clean, flat work surface
some quiet time to work at a relaxed pace, don’t rush it!

In these project photos, I’m working on a small zipper pouch and an easier-to-see sample swatch.  First, lay out your handwork against the zipper to determine how long you need the zipper to be for your item.  Mark this spot with a pin.  Here I’m centering the zipper about an eight of an inch in from each end.

Now, using sewing thread and a sharp needle, make a bar tack stitch by sewing over and over and over some more until you’ve built up a little bump of stitches in the spot you’ve marked. Clip threads.  See?  You’ve made your own zipper stop!  Clip the zipper 3/4 inch away from this bar tack; now you’ve got a custom length zipper.

Lay out your handwork piece on the desired side of your zipper, pin in place like this:

Now, using your contrasting thread and a long running stitch, baste your zipper in place about a quarter inch from the edge of your zipper.  Don’t knot your thread, you need to be able to yank this back out again later.  Don’t worry about aiming for perfect stitches, just aim for a nice even tension to hold the zip flat. Again, this is temporary stitching.

Now you can remove the pins, and the basting stitches will hold your zipper smoothly in place while you do your “real” stitching.  Using your matching sewing thread, sew through your fabric and the fabric of the zipper about an eight of an inch from the edge of the zipper, using a small, neat backstitch.  Remember that Paula Abdul song, “Opposites Attract”?  “One step forward, two steps back…”  Backstitch is one step forward, AKA a full stitch length with the needle coming up through the underside of the work, then a half step back, taking a small half stitch length backwards down through the layers from the top of the work.

When you do this with your matching thread, the stitches completely disappear into the knit/crochet piece:

Once you reach the end of your seam, knot the thread and weave in the end.  Now you can pull that basting thread out, and you’ll have a nice flat seam:

Here’s the back, and you can see where I didn’t quite make it through all the layers here and there (not the end of the world, I promise):

Now, for added stability and to give the inside a neat finish, I whipstitch the edge of the zipper to the back of the handwork.  Using your matching thread again, use an overcast stitch and just catch a bit of the handwork in each stitch.  You’re not going to sew all the way through the the front of the work, just on the surface of the wrong side.

Finished whipstitching:

And then you’re done!  Repeat for the other side, weave in loose threads.  For separating zippers on garments, I like to make bar tack stitches and the top and bottom of each side of the zipper to reinforce the opening.  If your item will be getting a lot of heavy use, you can opt to sew an additional backstitch seam next to each of your first seams for extra strength.

Next Friday, I’ll be posting part 2 of this tutorial, which is on sewing a lined zipper pouch.  And I’ll be releasing the pattern for these cute zipper pouches:

Tune in next week!

The basics of hexagon paper piecing can be found in a great tutorial on the Sew, Mama, Sew blog, as well as here on Lovestitches.  And I use the no-show sewing method shown here on the Sew Many Ways blog.  This is a great way to use up teensy bits of cool scrap fabric, or to show off one motif of a larger print.

Don’t forget to remove the paper before you sew the patch down!  Use a sewing needle and thread and little whipstitches.

Questions?  Drop me a line.  Have fun!

I’m crazy about these paper pieced hexagon patchwork pieces this week, ever since I saw the tutorial  by Melissa of All Buttoned Up over at the Sew, Mama, Sew blog.  I had this pack of warm golden and red flannels and got started hand sewing these addictive little hexagons.

Here’s a little sneak peek of tomorrow’s free pattern, a fun crocheted cuff bracelet.  This one is Superwash BFL in Poppi, with vintage buttons. 

Crochet medallion

The damaged sleeve- #@%$!!

For these patches you’ll need a size C/2.5mm crochet hook, scraps of sock/fingering weight yarn, scissors, your iron, matching sewing thread and sewing needle, and a tapestry needle.  You may also want straight pins.

Blue rosettes shown are Merino Bamboo Fine in Skull Tee & Blue Jeans, yellow rosettes shown are Luxe Merino Fine in Sucre.

Watch me make those holes disappear!

Each patch is made of at least two rosettes joined to create a free-form style shape.  The rosettes are joined with a final round of crochet, then sewn in place.

Three sizes of rosettes to mix-n-match.

To begin a rosettes, make a magic ring:

Wrap yarn clockwise around your finger twice.

Insert hook into ring and draw through a loop.

Here I’m making rosette B, the medium motif.  It begins with chain 3, as does rosette A.  For rosette C, begin chain 4.

Chain 3.

Work round 1:11dc into magic ring. Gently pull tail to close the ring, leaving no hole.

All closed up!

Join last stitch to 3rd chain of turning chain with a slip stitch.  Work remaining rows of chart.  Make several rosettes in varying sizes according to your intended layout.  Now we’ll join them up!

Finished rosettes ready to be joined together.

Insert hook into any spot along outer chain, yarn over and draw through loop to begin.

 Single crochet evenly spaced along outer chains.  I usually single crochet 7 into a chain 5 space, or 5 into a 3 space; this creates a firm outer edge.  Continue partway around to where you’d like to join the next rosette.

Join by continuing the single crochet stitching onto the outer chain of the next rosette. Continue working single crochet around the second rosette until you get close to where you began.

Single crochet, continued.

Once you get close to where you began the round on rosette two, pick the spot where you'd like the two pieces to come together again, and continue your round of single crochet back onto rosette one. There will be a small gap of unedged chain which we'll take care of later.

Continue working single crochet around rosette one until you come back to the beginning of round.  Join with slip stitch, cut yarn leaving a tail, and fasten off.

Steam press patch flat. Really flat.

Weave in tails using tapestry needle.  Use whichever tail is closest to your unedged join, where the two rosettes meet, to tack the pieces together from the back.  As long as the front looks good, don’t stress about the back.  Once it’s sewn down, no one will see it.  I personally love that aspect!

Pick a thread that will blend in with your work, and grab your sharp sewing needle. You may want to use straight pins to pin your patch where you'd like it to be sewn down. I tend to just hold it in place and go at it.

Use the smallest stitches you can manage to sew the patch down. I use a fine running stitch at the very edge, almost the back of the patch. Continue all the way around the edge of the patch. You may or may not want to give it a few small stitches in the center, depending on how large of a piece you crocheted, and the thickness of your fabric.

The final look, with extra patches for fun!

I’d love your feedback on this tutorial, because I’m planning on posting more.  Let me know what you think!